What to wear and bring
La Jolla water ranges from 56°F in winter to 72°F in late summer. The right gear makes the difference between a 20-minute shiver and a 2-hour session. Here's what we recommend at every temperature.
Wetsuit guide by water temperature
Check today's water temp on our conditions page
The warmest La Jolla gets. A 3mm full suit is comfortable for extended sessions. Shorty works for shorter dives but you'll feel it after an hour.
The sweet spot. A good 3mm suit keeps you comfortable for 2+ hour sessions. Open-cell interior dries faster and insulates better than lined neoprene.
You'll want the extra thickness. A 5mm with smooth-skin exterior reduces wind chill on the surface. Hood optional but recommended for longer sessions.
Cold enough to significantly reduce breath hold capacity. Hood keeps your head warm and prevents brain freeze on duck dives. Consider 5mm gloves for deep dives.
Canyon water can drop to 49°F at depth in winter. Limit session length. A 7mm suit or adding a hooded vest under your 5mm makes a big difference. Cold water kills breath hold.
Cold water tip: Water temperature drops 2-4°F per 30ft of depth in La Jolla Canyon. If the surface is 62°F, the canyon wall at 80ft might be 56°F. Winter canyon temps can hit 49°F at depth. Dress for the deepest water you plan to reach, not the surface temp.
Mask
Low-volume frameless mask
The single most important piece of freediving gear. Low internal volume means less air to equalize at depth. Frameless design sits closer to your face, improving field of view and reducing drag.
Look for masks under 100ml internal volume. Popular choices: Cressi Atom, Omer UP-M1, Molchanovs CORE. Black silicone skirt reduces glare.
Nose clip (optional)
Some freedivers prefer a nose clip with goggles for depth training — eliminates mask equalization entirely. Not for ocean exploration dives, but great for line work.
Mouthfill equalization works with or without a mask. Train both.
Fins
Long-blade freediving fins
Freediving fins are 2-3x longer than scuba fins. The longer blade converts each kick into more forward propulsion with less effort — critical for breath-hold diving where efficiency = survival.
Start with polymer/fiberglass blades. Carbon fiber is more efficient but more fragile and expensive. Foot pocket fit matters more than blade material.
Proper foot pockets
The connection between your foot and the blade. A sloppy fit wastes energy. Too tight causes cramps. This is where most beginners go wrong.
Try on with 2-3mm neoprene socks (what you'll wear diving). Your heel should be locked in with no lift. Toes should not be crunched.
Snorkel
Simple J-tube snorkel
Freediving snorkels have no purge valve, no splash guard, no flex tube. Just a simple tube. Less drag, less stuff to break, and you remove it from your mouth before every dive anyway.
Bright color helps your buddy spot you. Remove from mouth before duck diving — never freedive with a snorkel in your mouth.
Weight
Rubber weight belt
Rubber belts grip your wetsuit and don't slide. Nylon buckle belts slip when you duck dive. A proper weight belt is the difference between streamlined diving and constantly adjusting.
You should be neutrally buoyant at ~10m (33ft) with empty lungs. This means you're slightly positive at the surface (safe) and slightly negative at depth (efficient). Overweighting is the most common beginner mistake.
Neck weight (optional)
Moves weight off your hips and onto your chest/neck. Helps with trim — keeps you horizontal and streamlined instead of feet-heavy.
Start with a belt. Add a neck weight later once your technique is solid. 1-2 lbs on the neck replaces 2-3 lbs on the belt.
Safety gear
Float, flag, and line
Required by law for beach diving in La Jolla. The float marks your position for boats. The flag signals divers below. The line is your descent/ascent reference.
Bright orange or red float. Dive flag must be visible from 200+ yards. The line also serves as your safety reference if you lose orientation.
Dive computer / watch
Tracks your depth, dive time, surface interval, and number of dives. Essential for monitoring your diving and staying within safe limits.
Freediving mode is different from scuba mode — make sure your computer has it. Popular: Suunto D4f, Garmin Descent, Shearwater Peregrine.
Buddy
Never freedive alone. Your buddy watches from the surface during your dive and is there to assist if you have a blackout or loss of motor control. This is non-negotiable.
One up, one down. Always. The #1 cause of freediving fatalities is diving alone.
Nice to have
Freediving wetsuit (open cell)
Purpose-built freediving suits use open-cell neoprene on the inside — it creates suction against your skin for incredible insulation. The exterior is smooth (no zippers, minimal seams) for less drag.
Open-cell suits require lube to put on (conditioner + water). They're fragile — fingernails will tear them. But the warmth and flexibility difference vs a scuba suit is dramatic.
Lanyard
Connects you to the dive line during depth training. If you black out, you stay on the line where your buddy can reach you.
Required for any line diving. Quick-release mechanism is essential — you must be able to detach in an emergency.
Dive light
Even during the day, a light helps you peek into crevices on the canyon wall. At night, it's essential — the canyon comes alive after dark.
Compact, bright, with a wrist lanyard. 1000+ lumens for night dives. Lower output for day exploring.
Not sure what gear you need?
Our AIDA courses include all gear. If you're looking to buy your own kit, we'll help you get fitted properly.
Ask us about gear →